What To See in Seville At A Weekend TravelNovember 26, 2018
Although nobody believes it: it is perfectly possible to travelSevilla Spain, without stepping on a tablao flamenco, mention the April Fair or speak about the purity of the always imposing Holy Week. And there is still tradition for a while.
In this brief guide to the city that administered the most glorious epoch of the Spanish Empire, history takes the reins and clichés are left on the road.
10.00 This year, Seville won the critics and the public’s prize. In addition to being selected by Lonely Planet as the best destination in the world to visit in 2018, TripAdvisor users point to one of its monuments, the Plaza de España, as the second most spectacular tourist spot, just behind the temple of Angkor Wat (Cambodia).
It is impossible to know for sure, but at that peak of popularity may have influenced the walks of Anakin Skywalker through the porticos of the square in “Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones”.
Ornamental tiles on one of the bridges of the Plaza de España in Seville, Andalusia (Getty Images for Travel).
This space of colossal dimensions was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 and stands out for its 48 banks adorned with tiles that represent the Spanish provinces: Seville does not appear (it is present in other ornamental elements of the square) and at that time the Canary Islands was a uniprovincial community.
Located next to the square, the Maria Luisa Park It is a good option for a relaxed walk, especially in those times when the heat is installed in Seville.
Another view of the Plaza de España in Seville, Spain. It has been the scene of several films, among them “Star Wars Episode II – Attack of the clones” (Spanish Tourist Office).
11.00 We leave the María Luisa park on its western end and head towards the University of Seville, former tobacco company. If the plaza from which we came was designed with an elliptical shape to represent a figurative embrace of the American lands, in this place the benefits of the conquest materialized in wealth for the Crown and the city.
The building was erected in the eighteenth century and housed the first large tobacco factory in Europe. Walking parallel to its Renaissance façade with Herrerian airs is highly recommended, as long as you do not forget that modern cities have their dangers on your journey into the past … how to end up on the tram tracks that you have on your side.
If you are one of those who need a coffee at midmorning, a good option is to be impressed by the Hotel Alfonso XIII, a five star hotel in the top 10 of European luxury However, it still maintains municipal ownership. The imposing architectural complex is completed by the annex Palacio de San Telmo, seat of the Presidency of the Junta de Andalucía.
In the distance is La Giralda, the most famous tower in Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourism Office)
Already in the Puerta de Jerez square, our itinerary will continue along the Avenida de la Constitución to reach the jewel in Seville’s crown of heritage: the cathedral and its indispensable bell tower.
Tourists walking around the Cathedral of Seville (Getty Images for Travel)
12.00 Dwarfed under The 100 meters high of La Giralda We begin to become aware of the role of Seville in history. As if it were a geological stratum, the tower of the cathedral reveals the periods lived by the city: the base corresponds to the time when it served as the capital of al-Andalus in the Almohad period (12th century), while the upper third evidence the passage from mosque to Christian temple.
To call weather vane to the statue of more than three meters that crowns the belfry would not be to do it justice, and nevertheless, that seems to be the origin of the name of both the Giralda as of the Giraldillo, derived from Italian turning it (spinning object).
The Cathedral of Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourist Office)
Just by walking a few steps you will radically change the scale of the Plaza de Santa Marta, a tiny corner of the neighborhood of Santa Cruz that serves as a sample button of all its charm. Once visited, it is worth the struggle for a space of its own among the vortex of tourists and horse-drawn carriages and surrounding the whole of the cathedral, with special attention to the Archive of the Indies, the original database of everything that happened in the The new World.
Now it is also time to face the Real Alcázar, a palace whose origin dates back to the 11th century and that is still used as accommodation for members of the Royal House. You can visit among other spaces the Patio de las Doncellas or the one of the Dolls, in which there are nine faces carved in the columns of the arches. Tradition says that finding all of them brings luck, so the challenge is served.
Real Alcázar, one of the unmissable visits of Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourism Office).
13.00 Crossing the Patio de Banderas you will reach a small alley worthy of the London of “Jack the Ripper” by which you access the Water Street, parallel to the city wall. Through the interior of the wall that you have to your left the water flowed to the gardens of the Reales Alcázares, hence its name.
It is time to let go and enjoy the traveler’s greatest pleasure: getting lost in the streets without destination or deadline. If Paris is worth a Mass, the neighborhood of Santa Cruz surely deserves a delay. The treasure hunt begins here: the one that the lattices hide and give way to the famous courtyards of Seville with their fountains and floral wealth.
When you finish your immersion in the neighborhood of Santa Cruz or your stomach forces you to change course, guide your steps back to Constitution Avenue. In a few minutes you will be in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and it will be time to recover your strength in the Enrique Becerra restaurant (C / Gamazo, 2).
Panoramic view of Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourist Office)
16.00 We resume the route by taking Calle Entre Cárceles towards the Church of El Salvador. Pay attention: there is a symbol that appears again and again through the streets of Seville. It is the No & Do, the motto of the city that is attributed to King Alfonso X the Wise in reference to the loyalty of Seville in his war against his son Sancho. According to the most widespread theory, the curious acronym would read “He has not left me”, in which the central symbol represents a skein of wool.
Already in the Plaza del Salvador, the first thing that draws attention are the dimensions of the church, the second largest temple in the city after the cathedral. Built on the remains of the mosque of Ibn Adabbas, this baroque church is the seat of the brotherhoods of La Borriquita, La Pasión and El Amor.
Jano fountain in the Casa de PIlatos, Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourism Office)
17.00 It is time to leave the story for a moment and enter the commercial area that make up the streets Sierpes y Cuna, avenues that during the hot months are covered with awnings to alleviate the effects of the scorching sun of the city. You have to go up Laraña Street and turn right to see that Sevilla is not satisfied with the inheritance received centuries ago.
Metropol Parasol, designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer in Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourist Office)
In the Plaza de la Encarnación stands the latest addition to the select Sevillian heritage club: the Metropol Parasol, designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer. At the foot of the structure you will discover that the so-called “Seville Mushrooms” actually look more like a waffle of enormous dimensions. Some certify as the largest wooden construction in the world and is a perfect place to take a breath and contemplate the multicolored puzzle rooftops that populate the city.
Some people claim that Metropol Parasol or Setas de Sevilla is the largest wooden building in the world (Spanish Tourism Office).
18.30 Art lovers will be holding their heads: six o’clock in the afternoon and Don Bartolomé was not mentioned yet! It is time to amend the grievance and enjoy the work of the great Sevillian painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, especially now that 400 years have passed since his birth.
Hospital de Caridad, where you can see part of Murillo’s work in Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourism Office)
Besides being able to visit the house where he lived and developed part of his work, the City Council created an itinerary to see some of his baroque paintings in the Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, the Alcazar, the Hospital de la Caridad or the San Convent Francisco, among others.
In our case, we will go to the epicenter of his legacy, which is none other than the Museum of Fine Arts: the anthological exhibition about Murillo awaits us.
Museum of Fine Arts, Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourism Office)
20.30 We must end the day. At the end of the day, an equally intense second part awaits us tomorrow … Go down Bailén Street towards the Arenal neighborhood, where you can find several places to dine on tapas. Our recommendation: La Brunilda in Calle Galera or La Azotea in Calle Zaragoza.
And if you think that sleeping is weak, the options for nightlife in Seville are almost endless. In fact, for the joy of mythomaniacs, there is a place where it is possible to toast with the blood of Christ before the altar of the very Duchess of Alba. This is the bar El Garlochí (Boteros, 26), a tribute to the excess to which you have to make a pilgrimage if your heart beats at the rhythm of a processional step.
Flamenco is part of the identity of Andalusia (Spanish Tourism Office)
For something more traditional, perhaps better go through the Rinconcillo (Gerona, 40), which already served customers in the days of Calderón de la Barca.
More conventional: the terraces of the Alameda de Hércules or the bars of the Paseo de Colón are a good alternative.
A brief postdata for instagramers: a story with La Giralda illuminated in the background from the terrace of the Eme hotel will make the whole trip worthwhile.
10.00 The route starts on the banks of the river, on the San Telmo bridge. On your left, the Guadalquivir continues its course looking for the green of Doñana and the beaches of Sanlúcar de Barrameda before dissolving into the sea.
A boat crosses the Gudalquivir river that crosses Seville (Spanish Tourism Office)
On your right, one of the most recognizable silhouettes of Seville, the Torre del Oro, named for the effect of the sun on its structure. Is this the special light that the song speaks of? The construction, of the XIII century, was part of a broader defensive skeleton, whose wall protected the Arenal area and the noble part of the city. If, in more glorious times, the tower witnessed the arrival of great galleons carrying the gold of America, today it has to settle for tourists with more modest ambitions, such as a river walk of a few miles on one of the ferries that have as their point of departure. Depart the jetty located at your feet.
Mixed with tourists are athletes of all kinds, from runners to cyclists who take advantage of the walk that runs parallel to the river to exercise outdoors. Eliminating calories is always a challenge, but surely doing so with the neighborhood of Triana as a backdrop increases the level of endorphins.
Just a moment. If your sight does not deceive you, there is something there in the distance that does not close you. What is that dissonant note in the form of a building that breaks the sky and Seville’s architectural clichés? That skyscraper in the middle of nowhere is the Seville Tower, a project halfway between commercial center and office nursery raised on the grounds of the island of La Cartuja, home of the 1992 Expo.
Now cross the San Telmo bridge towards the Plaza de Cuba, dividing line between the neighborhoods of Los Remedios and Triana.
11.00 Before entering the neighborhood, it is important to make clear what Triana is NOT, despite her fame. Considering that you come from the splendor of the Santa Cruz neighborhood, do not expect great monuments, spectacular churches or iconic museums. Triana is authenticity, but not grandiosity. Without going into controversy, there are those who say that the essence of true Seville lies between these streets.
We started the tour on Betis Street (name given to the Guadalquivir among the Romans), on the right bank of the river, a host of facades that houses a wide range of cuisine and nightlife.
Traveled several blocks, I went up to the parallel street (Purity) and look for the chapel of the Mariners, where with a bit of luck you can say you saw the Esperanza de Triana, an essential step of the Sevillian Holy Week. Also stop at the church of Santa Ana, in the Altozano square. You will need to gather as much faith as possible to address the final dish of the getaway. Again: let yourself lose among the surrounding streets, I pried, I discovered. But do not get too disoriented: the vestiges of the darkest episode in Spanish history await you in the castle of San Jorge.
Flamenco shows, the most typical of Seville, Spain (Spanish Tourism Office)
13.00 We leave from the confluence between Betis Street and the Isabel II Bridge, better known as the Triana Bridge. With a more than discreet profile rises the castle of San Jorge, a Muslim fortress built in the twelfth century that served as the initial headquarters of the Inquisition from 1481 to 1785.
A few meters away is the Alley of the Inquisition, a narrow passage that leads to the river and from which it is easy to imagine the painful passage of those prosecuted by the Holy Office in the so-called autos de fe, on the way to the dungeons and torture rooms .
Currently, the walls of the Castle of San Jorge harbor a market and -for which history never tires of ironies-, a thematic center of tolerance.
Begoña Goitia / La Vanguardia, special for Clarín
CLARIN Source link